Thursday 13th April 2006 -

Hello one and all,

I´´m not gonna waffle on this time but just to let you know what we´´ve ben up to since the last time. Seems like about twenty years ago for us but prob seems like all I do is email to you lot.

The Lakes District (Argentina)

Arrived in San Carlos De Bariloche, spent one night and quickly moved on - big touristy town Bussed it via the 7 Lakes Road up to San Martin De Los Andes - pretty route and pretty if touristy town Went for a short trip up to Lago Huechulafquen (try saying that after a couple of pints!) - amazing views of Volcan Lanin, beautiful scenery, and cool wildlife (black vultures, humming bird) Returned to Bariloche Trekked the Nahuel Huapi Traverse - easily the most difficult and amazing trek yet, some full on scaling of cliffs (Slim you´d be proud), skiing without skis, scrambling and more fantastic views - tough but very cool.

The Atacama Desert (Chile and Bolivia)

Flew to Calama then bussed it to San Pedro De Atacama

- cool little(tiny) town all made of adobe, very touristy but really nice - also my first desert, cool (or not so cool, except at night) Emma got food poisoning and spent a day in bed while I bummed it round town and had a copper ring made for me (the biggest copper mine in the world - Chuquicama - is just around the corner so it seemed appropriate) Went on the most amazing four day 4 wheel drive trip into the high Andes of Boilivia seeing desert, volcanoes, thermal springs, geysers, salt lakes, flamingos, vijuñas, llamas, a yellow eagle/vulture thing, cactii (mum you would have loved them), a big old rodenty thing, and the biggest salt flat in the world (Salar De Uyuni - 12,000km2, over half the size of Slovenia apparently) which was prob one of the most amazing things I´ve ever seen. We met a couple of cool Slovenians (hence earlier comment) as well and were driven by a cool Bolivian called Alejandro who always drove the fastest of the jeeps even though llamas struggle to walk on some bits its so rough, all so we could have the best views and have it to ourselves. OK so we had to endure his never ending looped tape of the most irritatingly catchy Bolivian music, but it was worth it. Oh and the altitude. San Pedro (2440m), Bolivian border (4000m), Salar de Uyuni (3650m) and the geysers (4950m) and I think we touched the 5000m mark near the geysers! All with no sickness - put that in your hat and smoke it Slim - 6000m should be no problem, mind you I wouldn´´t want to do much running up there, you get out of breath making coffee!

Then went to see Valle De Lune near San Pedro, cool.

Next on the agenda is chilling in Santiago and then fly to Easter Island. Think we´re gonna take it easy there as we´ve not stopped yet.

Well I hope all is well at home, I may send some individual emails at some point but don´t hold your breath.

Until next time its goodbye from her and farewell from me. Chin chin

Ed and Em xxxx

San Pedro De Atacama, Chile

Sunday 26th March 2006 -

Hello all, I hope everyone is OK. Just thought I´d let those who don´t know know that we´re here and those who do let them know more (if that makes sense).

This whole place is fantastic - the views, the wildlife, the people (if a tad odd), the weather (wild as you like) - in fact the only downer coming in the form of too many other tourists (damn sight see-ers - anyone would think they haven´t got jobs to go to or something!). I can reel off some of the things and places we´ve seen/been to so you can check them on a map or on the internet or throw them in the bin or show off your patagonian knowledge in the pub quiz or something.

Arrived in Buenos Aires - nice but just a big city Flew to El Calafate - bit like a ski resort but OK Bussed it to Puerto Natales - coolest journey ever loads of steppe and wildlife (see later)PN is nice Trekked the 'W' in Parque National Torres Del Paine - six days of fun frolics and amazing sights Bussed it via PN to Punta Arenas - not too special big town but another cool wildlife journey Trip to see Magellanes Penguins - coolest birds around Via PA and PN back to Calafate Stocked up and bussed it to El Chalten - best little place yet real end of the world feel Trekked in PN Los Glaciares seeing Aguja Poincenot, Cerro Electrico, Cerro Torre and Mount Fitzroy in PERFECT weather also loads of wildlife, glaciers, lakes and really nice people. Best bit of the whole trip yet.

Back to Calafate

Today did a very touristy trip to Glaciar Perito Moreno, a truly spectacular glacier - we cramponed our way around on it and watched big chunks falling off the front from shore and a boat. Fun stuff.

Next off to Bariloche and the Lakes District, think we may go up to San Martin De Los Andes to do some trekking, mountain biking and rafting. We´ll see where this damn wind takes us (probably the Atlantic judging by its present strength).

On the wildlife front:

Condors (one only fifty metres away when we were at the top of a mountain near Cerro Electrico) Caracaras galore (Southern Crested, White Throated and

Chimanga)

Austral Pygmy Owl

Bicoloured (Chilean) Hawk hunting in the woods Upland Geese and another sort I´ve forgotten the name of Chilean Flamingos Patagonian Red Foxes Hares (introduced) Magellanic Woodpeckers male and female Magellanic Penguins Patagonian Sierra Finch(?) Treerunners Patagonian Skunks Black Chested Buzzard Eagles plus loads more birds from little sparrows to unknown big raptors and loads and loads of plants (lots of lenga and coigue trees). All very cool and amazing to see (can you guess that we´ve purchased ourselves a bird book?)

The contrasts of this place are amazing - massive mountains to the flat steppe, the howling wind and rain to the very hot and UV-full sun, the dense woods, marshes, glaciers, amazing geology and semi-arid, almost desert-like steppe. Pretty awesome really.

The toughest thing, apart from our distinct lack of español (damn gringos), has been the size of our rucksacks when trekking. Two six-day treks so far with me carrying about 23kg and Emma carrying 18kg (see Glyn I still haven´t learnt from the Two Moors Way!).

The food here is the only thing that doesn´t have a rich variety. If you don´t like pizza, pasta or steak then don´t come here!

Well, we say bye to southern Patagonia today after three and a half weeks - wow, we´re only a quarter of a way through, feels like we´ve done more in that time than in the previous ten years! And after all that me and Emma are still firmly together and enjoying each others company!

Right that´s it, I´m buggered if I´m gonna sit here in front of a computer for any more time - that´s why I quit my job after all! By the way has anyone seen any nice wardening jobs going in the westcountry yet? Keep looking.

Mum, dad, nick and Libby - have fun in Turkey Lynyrd and Terrance - blah, custard and blobby bits Father and Slim - what happened to gravity in the tamar valley?! well done you two Rosie, slim, dad, shaun - happy birthday Ross - hows the running and is this getting through to all the boggles?

Stephen - are you still in slapton?

Clare - pass this on to chocolate pants, cakehead and the cycleau folks Everyone else - see Lynyrd and Terrance

Byeeeeeee

Ciao

Hasta Luego

Ed and Emma xxxxxxx